Cycling Chain Maintenance

Supplies

• Chain stretch measurement tool (I use Park CC-2 Chain Checker)
• New chain (and link)
• Degreaser (I use Finish Line Citrus Degreaser)
• Dishwashing soap
• Jar (optional)
• Nixfrixshun chain lubricant
• Paper / cotton disposable shop towels (or clean towels) (I use Scott Shop Originals)
• Drip tray (optional)
• Cheap lube (like rock and roll gold) (optional)

Initial Cleaning

• Unpack new chain (and link) and place in jar with 2-4oz degreaser
• Shake jar for several minutes. degreaser should be cloudy.
• Drain degreaser, fill with water and generous amount of dishwashing soap
• Shake jar for a few minutes. chain should not feel oily. if it feels oily, make another pass with water and soap.
• Remove chain from jar and pat dry with towel. leave chain to dry for several hours or more.

Initial Lubrication

• Install chain with link according to chain instructions
• Place bike upside down and shift to largest gear (largest chainring, smallest cog)
• Pedal crank backward (by hand) and apply 1 drop of lubricant to each link of the chain at top of the cog.
• Ensure lubricant penetrates chain by pedaling crank backward at least 12 times. Pedal crank forward (by hand), shift to the largest cog, pedal at least 12 revolutions to ensure good penetration, then shift back to smallest cog.
• Wipe excess lubricant from chain. If using paper cotton shop towels, fold square in half, pedal crank backward (with left hand), place folded square in right hand while gripping chain, wipe chain as it passes through hand. Make several passes moving down the folded towel for clean area.
• Wipe excess lubricant from derailleur rollers by pinching roller between right fingers with towel and pedaling crank backward with left hand.
• Chain should have dry steel appearance (not very oily or dirty)

Ongoing

• At least after every 50 miles of riding, re-apply lubricant. When I ride a century or more, I apply lubricant before the century ride and before the following ride.
• Place bike upside down and shift to largest gear (largest chainring, smallest cog)
• Wipe dirty lubricant from chain. If using paper cotton shop towels, first fold square in half. If you have cheap lubricant, apply 3 2cm stripes at the top center and bottom of towel to aid release of dirty lubricant from chain. Next, pedal crank backward (with left hand), place folded square in right hand while gripping chain, wipe chain as it passes through hand. Make several passes moving down the folded towel for clean area.
• Wipe excess lubricant from derailleur rollers by pinching roller between right fingers with towel and pedaling crank backward with left hand.
• Pedal crank backward (by hand) and apply 12 drops of lubricant to chain at top of the cog.
• Ensure lubricant penetrates chain by pedaling crank backward at least 12 times. Pedal crank forward (by hand), shift to the largest cog, pedal at least 12 revolutions to ensure good penetration, then shift back to smallest cog.
• Fold towel inside out (placing the dirt section from before inside the fold
• Pedal crank backward (with left hand), place folded square in right hand while gripping chain, wipe chain as it passes through hand. Make several passes moving down the folded towel for clean area.
• Wipe excess lubricant from derailleur rollers by pinching roller between right fingers with towel and pedaling crank backward with left hand.
• Chain should have dry steel appearance (not very oily or dirty)

Lubricant

This probably seems obsessive, but it's easy preventative maintenance that reduces wear on more expensive parts (chainrings and cassette) and increases drivetrain efficiency (so more pedaling force is transmitted to pushing you forward and less is lost to moving your chain around).

I've been using NFS for several years with good chain longevity and no issues during rides. I've used it in dry heat, long wet days, and in muddy races without issues. I settled on this lubricant after reviewing Zero Friction Cycling's guide, with the goal of low overall cost and ease of use. I don't have the equipment to ultrasonically clean my chain or wax it in a dedicated crock pot. Rumors are Silca's new lubricant might be even better - it's wax based but doesn't require the equipment needed to properly wax a chain. Zero Friction Cycling should be testing it soon.

Measurement and Replacement

I tend to replace the chain on my road bike 2-3x/year and replace the chain on my gravel bike 3x/year. I got about 5000km (over 5 months) out of my last road chain (consistent with the Zero Friction Cycling findings). You may notice degraded shifting performance (sluggish shifting, strangely timed jumps) and unusual chain noises when it's time to replace the chain.